Hermanes, Isle of Unst, Shetland
Landscapes and seascapes that make you feel as if you have found one of the most remote coastlines in the world; superb wildlife and a history that stretches from the last war right back to the dawn of civilisation - you can experience all this on the Orkney and Shetland Islands.
The islands that make up the Northern Isles lie far out in the North Atlantic. They are geographically and historically closer to Norway than to Scotland.
The landscapes of the fertile agricultural islands of Orkney, thanks to its base of Old Red Sandstone, contrast with the more rugged Shetland islands 100 miles further north with its poorer soil and therefore depending much more on the wealth of the sea. Hence the well-known saying that ‘an Orcadian is a farmer with a boat, while a Shetlander is a fisherman with a croft’.
Orkney is a place of big open skies, rounded hills, beautiful beaches and well kept farms. Only on Hoy does the landscape take on a wilder feel, with rolling hills and towering cliffs.
Orkney is also notoriously rich in archaeological remains. It is said that if you scratch the soil it bleeds archaeology. Above all, in visiting Orkney you get a feeling of continuity, the sense that for thousands of years people have worked the land and left their mark.
The number and quality of ancient Neolithic monuments testify to Orkney’s pre-eminent position at the centre of Neolithic Britain.
Later the Vikings came, first visiting in the summers to fatten their livestock and later, colonizing the islands, occupying and reusing farmsteads that had stood for millennia. And today, farming continues. Beneath many of today’s modern farms are the remains of Viking farms and, beneath that, layers of occupation stretching even further back in time.
Puffin
Shetland is an archipelago of islands 100 miles north of the Scottish mainland. At 60 degrees north, Shetland enjoys almost 24 hours of daylight during the summer, and the sun, low in the sky, brings a quality of light that is quite unlike anywhere else in Scotland.
The geology of the islands is ancient and complex. That, together with the erosive effect of the North Atlantic and the North Sea, has created a landscape characterized by dramatic cliffs, long fjord like ‘voes’ and beautiful sandy beaches.
Orkney and Shetland are a haven for wildlife. The islands are a birdwatchers’ paradise and one of the major seabird breeding and feeding areas in the North Atlantic. More than a million birds breed in very large colonies. Nowhere else in Britain, and hardly anywhere else in Europe, can you get so close, so easily, to so many seabirds. You can sit on a cliff top watching puffins just a few feet away from you, or you can savour the spectacle of thousands of gannets diving into the sea.
We will certainly see common and grey seals. There are frequent sightings of harbour porpoises and occasionally dolphins and whales.
Shetland is one of the otter’s main strongholds in the UK, so there’s a good chance of seeing otters too.
The islands have over 600 species of flowering plants, including 21 species of wild orchid. Other botanical attractions include rare arctic-alpine plants, wildflower meadows, mosses and lichens.
Below are examples of a 10-day and 14-day private guided walking adventures.
The programme of hikes and visits will be tailored to your wishes and interests, but this is an example of how the holiday may look like.
We can change it to meet your interests, how much hiking you would like to do, the number of days you would like the adventure for and any specific places or islands you would like to visit. You can also choose the type of accommodation you would like to stay in: B&Bs/guest houses or (luxury) hotels.
Please send us an email with your requirements and we'll design a bespoke itinerary for you.
Day 1: Aberdeen - Kirkwall
Day 2: UNESCO World Heritage Sites on Mainland Orkney
Day 3: Isle of Hoy
Day 4: West Mainland and ferry to Shetland
Day 5: South Mainland Shetland and Isle of Mousa
Day 6: Stanydale Temple and Culswick
Day 7: Isle of Unst
Day 8: Eshaness
Day 9: Isle of Noss and Lerwick and overnight ferry to Aberdeen
Day 10: Arrive Aberdeen
We will meet in Aberdeen where we will board the ferry to Kirkwall on Orkney, where we will stay 3 nights.
We will visit several important Neolithic sites on mainland Orkney, from the Ring of Brodgar, to the Stones of Stenness and Maeshowe, which is Britain’s largest chambered cairn. This, the ‘Heart of Neolithic Orkney,’ which also includes Skara Brae, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. We also visit the RSPB (Royal Society for the Protection of Birds) reserve that surrounds the Ring of Brodgar. Its wild flower meadows and wetlands attract waders, ducks and raptors.
About 2 miles/3.2 km, flat
This morning we will take the ferry to Hoy. Our walk will take us along spectacular cliff-top scenery, through another RSPB reserve, to the world famous sea stack known as The Old Man of Hoy that has attracted generations of climbers, not to mention nesting seabirds. This is quite a hard day’s walking, but very much worth the effort.
6 miles/9.5 km, 550ft/170m of ascent
Ring of Brodgar, Orkney
We start the day at Skara Brae, possibly Orkney’s most exciting archaeological site, which was buried by a sandstorm in about 2450 B.Cand then revealed by another storm in 1850.
We will then walk south along spectacular Old Red Sandstone coastal cliff scenery with geos, natural arches, caves, and sea stacks.
Afterwards we visit the characterful and historic town of Stromness to take a walk through its winding main street all the way to the ness, or headland, of Stromness, where we get good views of Hoy. Stromness was the home Orkney’s most notable poet and writer, George Mackay Brown. It was also where ships of the Hudson’s Bay Company took on water, stores and recruited local men before heading out to the Canadian Arctic.
Up to 5 miles/8 km, 245ft/75m of ascent along undulating coastline
We board the overnight ferry to Shetland in the evening.
We arrive in Lerwick in the morning and head south to visit Jarlshof, which was occupied for more than 4,000 years. The site boasts a remarkable sequence of stone structures: late Neolithic houses, a Bronze Age and an Iron Age village, a Norse longhouse, a medieval farmstead, and a 16th-century laird’s house.
Hiking to Cuilswick Broch, Mainland Shetland
In the afternoon we take a boat to the uninhabited island of Mousa, another RSPB nature reserve. The wildlife includes harbour seals, arctic skuas, arctic terns and storm petrels. The island is also famous for its Iron Age broch, with 44 feet the world’s tallest and best-preserved Pictish broch.
4 miles/6.5 km, minimal ascent
On our first day on Shetland we'll go to the Westside for one of the finest walks in this part of Mainland. Our first stop is Stanydale Temple, a Neolithic hall, heel-shaped externally, and containing a large oval chamber. Around it are ruins of houses, walls and cairns of the same period.
The walk at Culswick follows the track through a dramatic valley, which narrows and rises when we reach the cliffs. The valley was once a sea loch. It is now separated from the sea by a shingle bar, creating a fresh water loch. At its lowest point, the track passes between high peat banks.
Near the coast, the track rises and Culswick Broch and ramparts appear ahead, above the Loch of the Broch. The green valley ends in pebble beaches fringed by sea stacks, cliffs and caves. The Pictish Culswick broch looks out on an awe inspiring view over Gruting Voe and Vaila Sound.
From the broch we head southeast along the cliff tops. There are remains of a monastic settlement on one of the sea stacks and a tiny dwelling on another. We continue following the shore back to the start of our walk.
We have a good chance to see lapwings, curlews, ringed plovers and mountain hares.
6 miles/9.5 km, 330ft/100m of ascent
Unst consists of a block of oceanic crust thrust, which is very much out of place. These enormous masses of thrust rock (called ophiolites) give a rare glimpse into the Earth’s deep interior. Along our way we will encounter some very interesting botany, a Viking longship and replica longhouse, and the northernmost cliffs of the British Isles, which are home to over 100,000 breeding sea birds.
4 miles/6.5 km, 560ft/150m of ascent
Gannets on the Isle of Noss, Shetland
The Eshaness peninsula tells a fascinating story of a long extinct volcano. The spectacular cliffs we see today show the best section through the flank of a volcano in the British Isles and it is a geological ‘must’. The sea has carved out a dramatic array of stacks, geos, and blowholes. Another highlight is an active storm beach still being shaped by hurricane force winds from the Atlantic in the winter.
4.5 miles/7.5 km, 200ft/60m of ascent
After having been on top of many seabird cliffs during our holiday, today we will view them from the sea. Our boat takes us around the islands of Bressay and Noss. Noss - ‘nose’ - is a National Nature Reserve. The old red sandstone cliffs of Noss are carved by the sea into thousands of ledges. These are ideal sites for seabirds’ dream-houses and competition is intense. We will get a close look at the cliffs packed with seabirds and our senses will be assaulted by the sight of thousands of birds, their deafening noise and the overpowering smell.
Finally you will have a chance to explore Lerwick, its shops and its excellent museum, before we board the overnight ferry to Aberdeen.
We arrive back in Aberdeen in the morning.
Brough of Birsay
Midhowe Broch, Rousay
Skara Brae
Yesnaby
Stenness
Old Man of Hoy sea stack
St Magnus Cathedral, Kirkwall
St Ninian's Isle
Hermaness, Isle of Unst
Gannet colony, Hermaness, Unst
Puffins at Hermaness, Unst
Papa Stour
Fethaland
West Burra.jpg
Sumburgh Head
The programme of hikes and visits will be tailored to your wishes and interests, but this is an example of how the holiday may look like.
We can change it to meet your interests, how much hiking you would like to do, the number of days you would like the adventure for and any specific places or islands you would like to visit. You can also choose the type of accommodation you would like to stay in: B&Bs/guest houses or (luxury) hotels.
Please send us an email with your requirements and we'll design a bespoke itinerary for you.
Day 1 - Aberdeen - Kirkwall
Day 2 - Brough of Birsay
Day 3 - Isle of Rousay
Day 4 - Skara Brae to Yesnaby, Stromness
Day 5 - The Heart of Neolithic Orkney
Day 6 - Isle of Hoy
Day 7 - Deerness, Italian Chapel, Kirkwall and overnight ferry to Shetland
Day 8 - Staneydale Temple and Culswick
Day 9 - St Ninian's isle, Jarlshof and Mousa
Day 10 - Unst
Day 11 - Papa Stour
Day 12 - Fethaland
Day 13 - West Burra, Noss and Lerwick and overnight ferry to Aberdeen
Day 14 - Arrive Aberdeen
We will meet in Aberdeen where we will board the ferry to Kirkwall on Orkney, where we will stay 6 nights.
Subject to the tides, our first day on Orkney begins with a visit to a small uninhabited tidal island called the Brough of Birsay, meaning ‘fort island’. Although only 600m long by 400m across, this little island offers pleasant walking and a chance to explore some important ancient and historic monuments.
Fifth century Christian missionaries are thought to have been the first to establish a settlement on the isle. After that the Picts established a settlement and built a fort. The Norse, in turn, displaced them in the 9th century. The most extensive remains on the isle are from this Norse period, including the remains of a small Romanesque church.
After exploring the monuments we’ll walk around the island visiting the lighthouse and sea cliffs at the western end. Back on Mainland we continue our walk along the northern shore of Mainland, by low cliffs, to Skippi Geo, a natural harbour used by Norse fishermen.
We then continue to the village of Birsay where we visit the remains of Earl Robert Stewart’s 16th century palace and the site of Orkney’s first Cathedral, where St Magnus was laid to rest in 1116.
4 miles/6.5km, 165ft/50m of ascent.
To the north of the mainland, across the Eynhallow Sound, lies Rousay (meaning Rolf’s island). This hilly island has been nicknamed the ‘Egypt of the North’ due to the richness of its archaeological sites, particularly its chambered tombs.
After a short ferry crossing to Rousay, our day begins with the Westerness Heritage walk, a 2.5 hour walk along Eynhallow Sound. This walk takes us to Midhowe broch, the 5,500 year old Midhowe chambered cairn, Norse farmsteads and the remains of St Mary’s church.
We'll spend the afternoon at the eastern end of the island and walk around Faraclett head with its dramatic cliff scenery and views across to the islands of Westray, Eday and Egilsay.
4 miles/6.5km, 330ft/100m of ascent.
Today we head for the western part of Mainland where we will visit the most complete Neolithic village in Europe, Skara Brae. Older than Stonehenge and the Great Pyramids, this stone build settlement is comprised of eight houses.
Our walk takes us from Skara Brae along impressive cliffs, past sea stacks, geos and the remains of the Broch of Borwick to Yesnaby.
Afterwards we visit the characterful and historic town of Stromness to take a walk through its winding main street all the way to the ness, or headland, of Stromness, where we get good views of Hoy. Stromness was the home Orkney’s most notable poet and writer, George Mackay Brown. It was also where ships of the Hudson’s Bay Company took on water, stores and recruited local men before heading out to the Canadian Arctic.
Up to 5 miles/8km, 245ft/75m of ascent along undulating coastline.
Ring of Brodgar, Orkney
The narrow isthmus of land between Loch of Harray and Loch of Stennes has a special significance. Many now agree the site, with its standing stones, temple complex, chambered tombs and villages, is the most important Neolithic site in Britain, the ritual centre for a 5000 years old Stone Age farming culture.
Together with Skara Brae these monuments on the isthmus have been designated the Heart of Neolithic Orkney UNESCO World Heritage Site. Today we will explore all of these important sites, walking west to east from the Ring of Brodger, to the newly discovered Ness of Brodgar and then on to the Stones of Stenness.
Afterwards we visit the Maeshowe Chambered Cairn. Orientated exactly with the hills of Hoy this amazing structure remained intact until it was looted by Vikings in the 12th century. The runes left by these Vikings represent the largest collection of such carvings in the world.
About 2 miles/3.2km, flat.
Our trip today is to the island of Hoy, meaning ‘high island’. After taking the car ferry to Lyness on Hoy we travel to the northern end of the island.
Our first stop is a short walk to the Dwarfie Stane, a 5,000 year old Neolithic stone cut tomb carved from a huge sandstone erratic boulder. It is quite unique in Britain and is most akin to the rock cut tombs found in the Mediterranean.
We then travel to the spectacular Rackwick Bay. With steep hillsides on both sides and a beach of smooth sandstone pebbles and fine sand, the bay is a great place to walk and absorb the atmosphere. In the afternoon we walk to the old Man of Hoy, an awesome 450ft/137m sea stack. With good weather there are fine views across the Pentland Firth to the Scottish mainland.
The walk is on a good path and takes a bit more than an hour one way. We return to Rackwick Bay by the same route.
6 miles/9.5km, 550ft/170m of ascent.
Italian Chapel, Orkney
Our last day on Orkney begins with a visit to Deerness in the east Mainland. Deerness is almost an island, separated from the rest of Mainland by a narrow isthmus.
In the north eastern extremity of Deerness the good farmland gives way to heather moorland and cliffs eroded and sculpted by the North Sea. We do a circular walk along this coastline visiting the Brough of Deerness, a remote headland that was once home to a community of Vikings. Only the remains of a chapel and hut shaped mounds survive today.
Afterwards we travel south to Scapa Flow and the Churchill Barriers. Constructed during World War II the causeways linking Mainland to South Ronaldsay were intended to make secure the important anchorage of Scapa Flow for Allied ships.
On Lamb Holm, one of the small islands forming part of the barrier, is the Italian Chapel. Build by Italian prisoners of war during World War II, the Chapel is made from two simple Nissan huts, with an ornate façade and decorated interior.
Later in the day we return to Kirkwall to visit St Magnus Cathedral, the Bishop’s Palace and the Earl’s Palace. Built by Earl Patrick Stewart in the late sixteenth century the Earl’s Palace is regarded as the finest example of Renaissance architecture in Scotland.
6 miles/9.5km, 645ft/196m of ascent.
We board the overnight ferry to Shetland in the evening, arriving the following morning.
On our first day on Shetland we'll go to the Westside for one of the finest walks in this part of Mainland. Our first stop is Stanydale Temple, a Neolithic hall, heel-shaped externally, and containing a large oval chamber. Around it are ruins of houses, walls and cairns of the same period.
The walk at Culswick follows the track through a dramatic valley, which narrows and rises when we reach the cliffs. The valley was once a sea loch. It is now separated from the sea by a shingle bar, creating a fresh water loch. At its lowest point, the track passes between high peat banks.
Near the coast, the track rises and the Broch of Culswick and ramparts appear ahead, above the Loch of the Broch. The green valley ends in pebble beaches fringed by sea stacks, cliffs and caves. The Pictish Broch of Culswick looks out on an awe inspiring view over Gruting Voe and Vaila Sound.
From the broch we head southeast along the cliff tops. There are remains of a monastic settlement on one of the sea stacks and a tiny dwelling on another. We continue following the shore back to the start of our walk.
We have a good chance to see lapwings, curlews, ringed plovers and mountain hares.
6 miles/9.5 km, 330ft/100m of ascent
Approaching Mousa Broch, Shetland
Today we'll explore the many fantastic sites south Mainland has to offer. One of the natural wonders of Shetland is St Ninian’s Isle, the best example of a tombolo in Europe. We take time to walk across the 500m long, sandy double beach to reach the grassy headland and the ruins of an early medieval chapel where Pictish treasure was found in 1958.
Next we visit Jarlsof, described as one of the most remarkable archaeological sites ever excavated in the British Isles. The site is comprised of a complex of dwellings from Neolithic times, the Bronze Age, Iron Age, Norse and Medieval Periods.
In the afternoon, we travel to Sandwick and board a small ferry for the 15 minute crossing to the uninhabited island of Mousa. The island is a haven for puffins, terns, arctic skuas, shags, bonxies (great skuas) and seals. About an hour of walking, with lots of stops to look at the wildflowers, views and wildlife, takes us the finest and best-preserved broch or round tower anywhere in the world. Build 2000 years ago, its 12m high walls remain intact, allowing us to explore inside and ascend to the top of the structure. A short walk at the end of the day takes us back to the ferry.
5 miles/8km, little ascent
Our visit to Unst is a day of ‘northernmosts’; the most northerly island, village, beach and bus stop! The rare serpentine rock underlying the islands is the remnant of a lost ocean sea floor – the Lapetus ocean of 600 million years ago. The rock gives a barren and stark look to the landscape and has created habitats for rare plants and flowers.
Unst is also famous for its Norse archaeological sites – it’s said that there are more Norse longhouse sites on Unst than in the whole of Scandinavia!
Our day starts by travelling north through the Mainland, across the island of Yell to Belmont on Unst. We then drive to the north of the island and visit Hermaness Nature Reserve. One hour's walk on good paths and boardwalks brings us to a huge and spectacular gannet colony on 558ft/170m high cliffs. This is a great place to see puffins as well. We continue our walk along the coast with good views of more gannet colonies and Muckle Flugga lighthouse, the most northerly lighthouse in the UK.
Returning to to the minibus, we’ll spend the rest of our time on Unst visiting a replica Viking longhouse and longship at Haroldswick and if time allows the Keen of Hamar Nature Reserve to look for the rare Edmundson Chickweed, a flower found at this site on Unst and nowhere else in the world.
6 miles/9.5 km and 1050ft/320m of ascent
Papa Stour, Shetland
Papa Stour - ‘big island of the priests’ - is formed from volcanic lava and ash. Exposed to the full force of the Atlantic Ocean, some of the most impressive coast line in Shetland can be seen here with caves, arches, stacks, skerries and subterranean passages.
Only 15 people live permanently on the island, but it was an important place in Neolithic, Bronze Age and Viking times with evidence of this all over the island.
The ferry crossing is 40 minutes and we will have 6 hours on Papa Stour. Our walk will go around the wild and remote western part of the island.
6 miles/9.5 km, 330ft/100m of ascent
Today’s walk takes us to the northernmost tip of Mainland, to North Roe and Fethaland. Jutting out into the Atlantic, Fethaland was an ideal location for a 19th century Haaf (meaning ‘open water’) fishing station, a dangerous enterprise which entailed six man teams rowing 50 miles out into the Atlantic Ocean to set lines for ling and cod.
Reaching the ruined station involves an easy 2 mile walk along a good track. The station is sited on a stunning tombolo, between two rocky beaches.
There is plenty of time to explore the remains of about 20 fishing bothies, and to watch the numerous inquisitive seals that hang out here.
Beyond the fishing station, are a small lighthouse and dramatic views. You can see the Rama Stacks, Unst and Yell to the north and east, Ronas Hill, Shetland’s largest hill, rising up to the south and the vast expanse of the Atlantic to the west.
The best Viking soapstone carvings in Shetland can be found not far from the lighthouse. Big bowl shapes can easily be made out on the slopes of Cleber Geo. We return the way we came, enjoying views of the great bulk of Ronas hill to the south.
6.5 miles/10.5 km, 1130ft/345m of ascent
Our last walk on Shetland will be on Burra Isle. Connected to the mainland by bridges, it doesn’t take long to get there from Lerwick. We begin by walking along a beautiful white sand beach called Banna Minn. Beyond that we continue along cliff tops on short grass taking in lovely views of Foula, south mainland and the Westside. The profusion of sea pinks and other wildflowers give Burra a friendly and gentle feel.
After having been on top of many seabird cliffs during our holiday, today we will view them from the sea. Our boat takes us around the islands of Bressay and Noss. Noss - 'nose' - is a National Nature Reserve. The old red sandstone cliffs of Noss are carved by the sea into thousands of ledges. These are ideal sites for seabirds' dream-houses and competition is intense. We will get a close look at the cliffs packed with seabirds and our senses will be assaulted by the sight of thousands of birds, their deafening noise and the overpowering smell.
We'll finish our last day on Shetland with some time off in Lerwick.
We board the ferry for our journey back to Aberdeen in the evening.
4.5 miles/7km, little ascent
Arrive in Aberdeen in the morning.
Brough of Birsay
Midhowe Broch, Rousay
Skara Brae
Yesnaby
Stenness
Old Man of Hoy sea stack
St Magnus Cathedral, Kirkwall
St Ninian's Isle
Hermaness, Isle of Unst
Gannet colony, Hermaness, Unst
Puffins at Hermaness, Unst
Papa Stour
Fethaland
West Burra.jpg
Sumburgh Head
